Tout premier tir avec M14

phh a écrit:Bonjour.

Les clics du M-14 ou M-1A, c'est (en gros) une minute d'angle par clic. C'est tout ce que j'ai toujours retenu et c'est bien suffisant. Je compte en gros 1 clic par zone de cible c-200 à 200 mètres. En hauteur comme en latéral.

Pour zéroter et remettre le "2" pour 200 mètres, il faut desserrer la vis sur le tambour côté gauche. Le bouton de hausse doit "tourner fou" et on met la graduation désirée en face du repère. Il est préférable de compter les clics à partir du bas AVANT de se livrer à cette manoeuvre. Il est d'ailleurs préférable de TOUJOURS compter les clics, parce que certaines garces de hausses ont tendance à descendre toutes seules. Dans ce cas il faut resserrer l'écrou conique à droite. En refaisant 1/4 de tour on entend un "clac" (c'est le ressort du tambour) et soit c'est bon soit c'est trop serré... Les distances sur le tambour de hausse sont en yards.

A 200 mètres généralement il faut 13 clics en hauteur. +4 pour être en cible à 300m.

M-14 bon fusil

phh a écrit:Oui, le chargeur de 20 a tendance à "poser" un peu sur le bras faible, je me suis déjà pris quelques remarques....

phh a écrit:Bonjour.

Les clics du M-14 ou M-1A, c'est (en gros) une minute d'angle par clic. C'est tout ce que j'ai toujours retenu et c'est bien suffisant. Je compte en gros 1 clic par zone de cible c-200 à 200 mètres. En hauteur comme en latéral.

Pour zéroter et remettre le "2" pour 200 mètres, il faut desserrer la vis sur le tambour côté gauche. Le bouton de hausse doit "tourner fou" et on met la graduation désirée en face du repère. Il est préférable de compter les clics à partir du bas AVANT de se livrer à cette manoeuvre. Il est d'ailleurs préférable de TOUJOURS compter les clics, parce que certaines garces de hausses ont tendance à descendre toutes seules. Dans ce cas il faut resserrer l'écrou conique à droite. En refaisant 1/4 de tour on entend un "clac" (c'est le ressort du tambour) et soit c'est bon soit c'est trop serré... Les distances sur le tambour de hausse sont en yards.
Non Sur le M14 ou M1A les distances sont en mètres le tambour a un M gravé, sur le Garand  ces répères sont en Yards .

A 200 mètres généralement il faut 13 clics en hauteur. +4 pour être en cible à 300m.

M-14 bon fusil

First of all, each "click" you feel/hear as you turn the Elevation Pinion up or down is SUPPOSED to change the strike of the bullet "One MOA." That means it is ONE Inch up or down at 100 yards, TWO inches at 200 yards, THREE inches at 300 yards and up to TEN inches at 1,000 yards. However, it REALLY IS NOT that precise when you change the sights and see the impact of the bullets change up and down. It is a ROUGH measurement that you have to fine tune for your eyes, the way you align the sights and the particular rifle and ammunition you are using. The "clicks" come from the triangular protrubance on the elevation drum that engages the serrations on the receiver.

1. Is there an "M" engraved somewhere around the drum? If there is, then the graduations for each number is in hundreds of meters, I.E. 1=100 meters, 2=200 meters, etc. This style was for the M14.

2. If there is NO "M" engraved somewhere around the drum, then the graduations for each number is in hundreds of yards. This style is for the M1 Garand. However, you can use either pinion for either rifle as the pinion itself otherwise remains unchanged.

3. The graduations ARE NOT PRECISE!!! They are only a ROUGH estimate AND they are ONLY for the 147-150 gr standard service bullet and powder charge in GI ammo. Change the powder or bullet and the graduations are virtually useless.

4. The BEST way to find and keep record of where to set the Aperture for each distance is to START with the aperture all the way down. Then you count up the number of "clicks" it takes turning the elevation pinion so it moves the aperture upwards to shoot at the yard line to center the sights FOR YOU the way you sight the rifle and the way the rifle groups. For example, many M1's and M14's need about 8 to 12 clicks for 100 yards THOUGH it MAY be more or less than that depending on the way you sight the rifle and how your rifle shoots. Some rifles only need 3 or 4 clicks at 100 yards and some rifles need up to 18 clicks at 100 yards. (In the latter case, it is best to file down the Front Sight so you have less clicks of elevation at longer distances.) Once you have found how many clicks it takes to center the group up and down, YOU WRITE DOWN the number of clicks in your data book for that range, let's say it is 11 clicks.

Then when you go to say 200 yards, you ADD about 3 or 4 clicks of elevation on top of the number needed for the 100 yard line. Once you adjust the elevation up or down to get it centered, you write down the TOTAL number of clicks. Let's say you found it took 4 clicks up from the 100 yard setting to center the group for elevation. That makes your total elevation at 200 yards to be 15 clicks. However, you ALSO want to make sure you record how many clicks it took to "come up" from the 100 yard setting to the 200 yard setting. In NM shooting, we call using this method as the person's "Come Up's" when going further back in range to the 300, 600 and 1,000 yard range. For example, a rough "Come Up" when going from the 600 yard line to the 1,000 yard line is to "come up" or add an additional 22 clicks FROM the sight setting for the 600 yard line.

Maybe Bamban or some of the experienced NM shooters will chime in and give us their normal "Come Ups" and you can use those as a rough estimate as you sight the rifle in for YOUR eyes and sighting style and the ammo you are using. HOWEVER, REMEMBER THAT IF YOU CHANGE THE AMMO, BULLET, POWDER OR SHOOTING POSITION; the "Come Ups" are probably going to change a bit.

What MOST NM shooters do is use different color nail polish to mark the elevation drum and the receiver for each yard line they shoot.

Now for BATTLE SIGHT ZERO, the number of clicks of elevation and windage is taken from the 300 yard PRONE position. On a regular Infantry Rifle, you put that on your rifle and then aim lower at shorter distances and higher at longer distances on the target.

BTW, when you are NOT shooting the rifle, it is BEST to run the aperture all the way down to protect the top of the aperture and especially a NM Hooded Aperture. Should you drop or bang a rifle on a hooded aperture when it is up, it may bust off. We used to FINE our shooters a Quarter if they left the Hooded Aperture UP when they gave the rifle to we Armorers on the Rifle Van, because of that. The reason was when we turned the rifle upside down on the bench to pop open the triggr guard and the hooded aperture was up, the hooded aperture hit the bench FIRST and could easily snap off loose.

Here is a thread on using the NM Hooded Aperture.

Using the NM Hooded Rear Sight Aperture.